A substantial whole-mushroom brunch
A whole, pan-seared flower shiitake forms the base for spinach and a poached egg, finished with a little lemony hollandaise. Keep the broad cap visible around the toppings for an inviting weekend brunch for two.
Times are approximate and include the stated soaking, preliminary cooking and waiting. Allow longer when needed, checking the hydration and doneness described.
Recipe illustrations; measure ingredients using the written quantities.
Briefly rinse the large flower shiitake, cover completely with plenty of cold water in a snug food-safe container and refrigerate, covered, at 5°C or below for about 8–12 hours or longer. Check the water level and add cold water as needed. If the centres remain firm, change the water and continue soaking in the fridge until even the thickest flesh is soft. Discard the soaking water, rinse and trim tough stems, keeping the caps whole. Do not soak overnight on the counter.
Put the whole caps in a small pan with about 750 ml fresh water, or enough to cover. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for about 60–90 minutes, checking and topping up with hot water. A small knife should pass easily through the thickest centre, with the flesh tender all the way through. If needed, cook for another 15 minutes and check again. Thickness affects the time; soaking does not replace this cooking stage. Drain and pat the surfaces gently with clean kitchen paper without breaking the caps. As the mushrooms finish, prepare the spinach and weigh the other ingredients, keeping eggs and pasteurised yolk refrigerated until needed.
Melt the butter gently, then remove from the heat and keep warm, not boiling. Put 30 g pasteurised yolk, lemon juice and 15 ml water in a heatproof bowl over gently simmering water, with the bowl clear of the water. Whisk continuously for about 3–5 minutes until paler and slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and whisk in warm butter, first drop by drop and then in a thin stream, until smooth and creamy. Season lightly, loosening with a teaspoon of warm water at a time if needed. Check the yolk is labelled commercially pasteurised; do not replace it gram-for-gram with ordinary raw yolk.
While making the sauce, heat the poaching water in another pan. Warm the oil in a frying pan over medium heat and sear the pre-cooked, dried-off caps for about 2–3 minutes per side until lightly golden. Transfer to warm plates. Wilt the spinach in the same pan with a tiny pinch of salt for about 2 minutes, then drain excess liquid. Put each cap gill-side up and add a little spinach, leaving its rim visible. Keep the sauce briefly over warm water and poach the eggs straight away rather than holding it for a long time.
Bring about 1 litre water and the vinegar to a very gentle simmer in a wide small saucepan, without a rolling boil. Crack each egg into a small cup and slip it close to the water, keeping eggs apart. With British Lion or Laid in Britain assured hen eggs, cook for about 3–4 minutes until the whites are fully set while yolks remain soft; size and water temperature affect the time. If assurance cannot be verified, cook for about 5–6 minutes or longer until both white and yolk are set, or serve a fully cooked egg instead. Do not judge by minutes alone. Lift with a slotted spoon and drain carefully.
Put one egg over the spinach on each cap and spoon over about 1–2 tablespoons hollandaise, offering any extra sparingly rather than hiding the mushroom. Add a little optional chopped parsley and serve immediately. The soft-centred version should have set whites and a soft yolk when cut; if choosing fully cooked eggs, follow that doneness rather than the illustration.
Contains egg and milk. Check vinegar and any prepared hollandaise for sulphites, mustard and other allergens. The Xianyitang dried-ingredient packs state that they are packed in a facility also handling peanuts, tree nuts, sesame and soya. Check the actual labels of every brand used.
Eat assembled portions immediately rather than storing sauced poached eggs. Only the pre-cooked mushrooms may be prepared ahead: cool promptly, refrigerate at 5°C or below within 2 hours and use within 48 hours or freeze. Reheat once until hot throughout before searing. Make sauce and eggs to order, discard leftover sauce and follow the opened yolk product’s label.
